Changes are afoot in the Catalan capital: the palpable surge of national pride as the region is granted more independence is giving a boost to every aspect of Barcelona life. While arts agendas are given a fillip and grand architectural schemes are dreamt up, the city is also seeing a return to its roots, with old traditions brushed off and ancient festivals given renewed vigour. The 11th edition of Time Out Barcelona looks at the changes and remains the ultimate reference for all the essentials: where to stay, where to eat, where to shop and what to see.