List of Figures Acknowledgments List of Contributors Introduction, Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun Part I: A Brief History of Modern Fashion Introduction, Linda Welters 1. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790, Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell 2. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860, Susan North 3. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910, Cynthia Cooper 4. The Modern Era: 1910-1960, Tiffany Webber-Hanchett 5. The Postmodern Age: 1960-2006, Jose Blanco Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part II: Fashion Theory Introduction , Abby Lillethun 6. The Power of Fashion, Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang 7. Written Clothing, Roland Barthes 8. The Fashion System, Grant McCracken 9. The Dressed Body, Joanne Entwistle 10. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory, Sandra Niessen 11. Fashion at the Edge, Caroline Evans Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part III: Fashion & Identity Introduction, Abby Lillethun 12. Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing, Colleen R. Callahan & Jo B. Paoletti 13. Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion, Karen Halttunen 14. Men and Women: Dressing the Part, Jo B. Paoletti & Claudia Kidwell 15. The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare, Stuart Cosgrove 16. Invisible Men, Shaun Cole 17. Subculture: The Unnatural Break, Dick Hebdige Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part IV: The Geography of Dress Introduction, Linda Welters 18. The Highlander Myth, Hugh Trevor-Roper 19. Ghulam Sakina: A Case Study in Transnational Design Production, Claire Dwyer and Philip Crang 20. World Cities of Fashion, David Gilbert 21. Auckland as a Globalising Fashion City, Alison Goodrum, Wendy Larner and Maureen Molloy 22. Suitably Attired , William Hamilton Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part V: Politics of Fashion Introduction, Abby Lillethun 23. Feminism and Fashion, Elizabeth Wilson 24. Local Consumption Cultures in a Globalizing World, Peter Jackson 25. Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair CottonTrade, Oxfam Briefing Paper 26. Not Only Nike's Doing It: 'Sweating' and the Contemporary Labor Market, Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part VI: Fashion and the Body Introduction, Abby Lillethun 27. A Second Look at the Big Squeeze, Jennifer Ruark 28. Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro, Robin D.G. Kelley 29. 'Material Girl': Madonna as Postmodern Heroine, Susan Bordo 30. Extreme Surgery, Graham Lawton Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part VII: Fashion and Art Introduction, LindaWelters 31. Art and Fashion, Michael Boodro 32. Fashion Rendering, Richard Martin 33. On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography, Olivier Zahm 34. Viktor & Rolf, Andrew Bolton Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part VIII: Fashion in the Media Introduction, Linda Welters 35. Fashion on the Page, Christopher Breward 36. Supermodels and Super Bodies, Jennifer Craik 37. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Kathleen Craughwell-Varda 38. Dressing the Part: Sternberg, Dietrich, and Costume, Sybil DelGaudio 39. Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press, Anna Konig 40. Punk and Neo-Tribal Body Art, Daniel Wojcik 41. Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America, Debora Silverman Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part IX: High/Low: From Haute Couture to the Street Introduction, Linda Welters 42. When Worth Was King, Anne Hollander 43. The Dressmaking World, Therese and Louise Bonney 44. Torontonian Taste in Couture, Alexandra Palmer 45.Trickle Down, Bubble Up, Ted Polhemus 46. Second-Hand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket, Angela McRobbie 47. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood, Sonnet Stanfill 48. Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge to be Seen and to be Heard, Yuniya Kawamura Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part X: The Fashion Business Introduction, Linda Welters 49. Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness, Katy Chapman 50. Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More Than Individual Flare to Stay at the Top, John Andrews 51. The Diary of a Dress, Lisa Armstrong 52. The Islamic Factor, Nicholas Coleridge 53. Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of 'The American Look', Tiffany Webber-Hanchett 54. McFashion is Entertaining, Michelle Lee 55. Born in the U.S.A.: The Growing Premium Denim Market Goes Global, Julia Fein Azoulay 56. Four Models of Fashion Relationships, Simona Segre Reinach 57. Fashion in India, Vandana Bhandari 58. Two for a Penny, Pietra Rivoli Annotated Guide to Further Reading Part XI: Future of Fashion Introduction, Linda Welters 59. What Happened to Fashion, Teri Agins 60. Implications for the Appearance-Alteration Industries, Ted Polhemus 61. Born to Buy, Juliet B. Schor 62. Dreamweavers: Weaving the Future, Cathy Newman 63. Made in China, Arthur C. Mead Annotated Guide to Further Reading Bibliography Index
