Introduction viii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Facts and figures 3, A historical background 5, Economy and infrastructure 12, People and culture 14, Sports and games 19, Language 20, Religion 21, Education 22 Chapter 2 Natural History 23 Geology and geography 23, Habitats 24, The wildlife 29 Chapter 3 Practical Information 43 When to visit 43, Tourist information 43, Tour operators 44, Red tape 44, Getting there and away 45, Safety and hassles 46, What to take 49, Money 50, Getting around 53, Accommodation 55, Eating and drinking 56, Public holidays 57, Media and communications 58, Interacting with Gambians 59 Chapter 4 Health 63 Preparations 63, Common medical problems 64, Other safety concerns 68 PART TWO GREATER BANJUL AND KOLOLI 69 Greater Banjul and Kololi: An Overview 71 Highlights 72, Getting around 73, Other practicalities 73 Chapter 5 Central Banjul 75 History 75, Getting there and away 78, Orientation 79, Security 79, Getting around 82, Where to stay 82, Where to eat and drink 83, Other practicalities 84, What to see and do 85 Chapter 6 Bakau and Cape Point 88 History 88, Getting there and away 89, Where to stay 89, Where to eat and drink 92, Entertainment and nightlife 93, Other practicalities 93, What to see and do 94 Chapter 7 Serekunda, Fajara and Kairaba Avenue 97 History 99, Orientation 99, Getting there and away 99, Where to stay 100, Where to eat and drink 103, Other practicalities 104, What to see and do 105 Chapter 8 Kotu and Palma Rima 109 Getting there and away 109, Where to stay 111, Where to eat and drink 113, Entertainment and nightlife 115, Other practicalities 115, What to see and do 116 Chapter 9 Kololi and Environs 119 Northern Kololi 119, The 'Senegambia' Strip 122, Bijilo Forest Park 128, Bijilo and Sukuta 128 PART THREE THE COASTAL BELT 131 The Coastal Belt: An Overview 133 Highlights 133, Getting around 134, Other practicalities 135 Chapter 10 Brufut, Tanji and Surrounds 137 Brufut 137, Tanji Bird Reserve 139, Tanji 140 Chapter 11 South to Kartong 145 Sanyang 145, Gunjur and Madina Salaam 146, Kartong and surrounds 149 Chapter 12 Inland to Brikama and Pirang 155 Abuko Livestock Market 155, Abuko Nature Reserve 155, Lamin 158, Yundum 158, Brikama 159, Pirang and Faraba Banta 164 Chapter 13 Niumi and the North Coast 167 Barra and surrounds 167, Albreda, Juffureh and surrounds 170, Niumi National Park 175 PART FOUR UPRIVER GAMBIA 179 Upriver Gambia: An Overview 180 Highlights 181, Getting around 181, Other practicalities 182 Chapter 14 Inland to Soma and Farafenni 183 The road east to Kalagi 183, Tendaba, Kiang West and Bao Bolong 189, Soma and surrounds 194, Farafenni 197 Chapter 15 Janjanbureh and Central River Division 200 The South Bank from Soma to Janjanbureh 200, Th e North Bank from Farafenni to Janjanbureh 201, River Gambia National Park 206, Janjanbureh and surrounds 211, Bansang 220 Chapter 16 Basse and Upper River Division 221 Getting there and away 222, Orientation 223, Where to stay 224, Where to eat and drink 224, Other practicalities 226, Activities and excursions 226 Appendix 1 Language 228 Appendix 2 Glossary 230 Appendix 3 Further Information 232 Index 234