Introduction VII PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 5, History 6, Government and politics 19, Economy 20, People 22, Language 23, Religion 24, Culture 27, Natural history 29, Environmental issues and conservation 31 Chapter 2 Practical Information 35 When to visit 35, Highlights 36, Suggested itineraries 37, Tourist information 37, Tour operators 38, Red tape 40, Embassies 42, Getting there and away 43, Health 47, Safety 51, What to take 54, Money 55, Budgeting 56, Opening times 58, Getting around 59, Accommodation 61, Eating and drinking 64, Public holidays 67, Festivals and special events 68, Shopping 69, Activities 69, Arts and entertainment 71, Media and communications 73, Cultural etiquette 74, Travelling positively 75 PART TWO THE GUIDE 77 Chapter 3 Irkutsk 79 History 79, Getting there 82, Getting around 83, Orientation 83, Tourist information 83, Where to stay 84, Where to eat 85, Entertainment and nightlife 86, Shopping 87, Other practicalities 87, What to see and do 87 Chapter 4 Southern and Western Baikal 93 Getting around 93, Angarsk 93, Ust-Orda 94, Taltsy Open-air Museum of Wooden Architecture 96, Listvyanka 97, Port Baikal 102, Bolshie Koty 103, Olkhon Island and Khuzhir 105, Maloe More 111, Slyudyanka 111, Baikalsk 114, Arshan 115, Mondy 117, Oka region 117 Chapter 5 Eastern Baikal and Southern Buryatiya 119 Getting around 119, Baikalsk to Ulan-Ude 120, Ulan-Ude 121, Ivolginsky Datsan 128, Tamchinsky (Gusinoozersky) Datsan 130, Novoselenginsk 132, Kyakhta 134, Selenga Delta 136, Gremyachinsk to Ust-Barguzin 137, Ust-Barguzin 138, Barguzin 140, Barguzin Valley 141, Davsha 143 Chapter 6 Northern Baikal 145 Severobaikalsk 145, Nizhneangarsk 150, Baikalskoe 153, Goudzhekit 155, Dzelinda 155, Northeast shore 156 Appendix 1 Language 159 Appendix Further Information 168 Index 181
