Uzbekistan is a country of contradictions. Where legality meets torture and Islam meets a secular state, Uzbekistan is torn between its historical roots, Soviet rule, and modern consumerism. As a vital ally in the 'War on Terror', yet retaining a deeply troubling record on human rights, even the West is uncertain about how to approach it.

In this vibrant account, respected journalist Robert Rand draws on three years living and travelling in the region to carefully deconstruct the cultural allegiances and tensions that color Uzbek life. From the heritage of the country's beloved hero, Tamerlane, to the clash of cultures in Uzbek pop music, this lively book will captivate the historian, the traveller, and anyone who wishes to understand modern life in the ex-Soviet bloc.