Hong Kong is a territory in perpetual re-invention. The fishing village colonised by the British in the early 19th century has long led Asia and the world in modern architecture - notably of the skyscraper variety. But this is not enough. With mainland Chinese cities going more Flash Gordon with their skylines than Hong Kong, the city has upped the ante and re-emerged as China's capital of cool. Several bars and restaurants with stunning contemporary interiors and drop-dead urban panoramas are dishing up credible international cuisine; hotels are making it on to the glossy magazines' hippest hot lists; and the government is spending more on the arts and the city's biggest natural asset: Victoria Harbour, whose promenades are finally no longer neglected wasteland. Written by journalists witnessing these transformations, Time Out Hong Kong is the best insider guide to China's most exciting city and environs.