Introduction viii PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, Natural history and conservation 5, History 10, Economy 21, People 21, Language 22, Religion 23, Education 24, Culture 24 Chapter 2 Practical Information 27 When to visit 27, Highlights 27, Suggested itineraries 28, Tourist information 29, Tour operators 30, Red tape 32, Embassies 32, Getting there and away 34, Health 39, Safety 41, Women travellers 43, Travellers with limited mobility 43, Gay and lesbian travellers 43, Travelling with children 43, What to take 44, Money 45, Getting around 46, Accommodation 53, Eating and drinking 54, Public holidays and festivals 57, Shopping 62, Opening times 62, Activities 63, Media and communications 71, Buying property 73, Cultural etiquette 73, Travelling positively 75 PART TWO THE GUIDE 77 Chapter 3 A Tale of Two Cities 79 Cetinje 79, Around Cetinje 90, Cetinje to Podgorica 96, Podgorica 98, Around Podgorica 112 Chapter 4 Bay of Kotorska 115 Herceg Novi 115, West of Herceg Novi 123, East of Herceg Novi 125, The Boka Kotorska 127, Kotor 139, Beyond Kotor 148, Tivat 152, Lustica Peninsula 161 Chapter 5 The Budva Riviera 165 Budva 165, West of Budva 177, South along the coast 178 Chapter 6 Haj-Nehaj 199 Southeast from Petrovac 199, Bar 202, The road to Ulcinj 210, Ulcinj 212, Around Ulcinj 218, The Albanian border region 221, Skadar Lake National Park 223 Chapter 7 Tramontana 233 Podgorica to Niksic 233, Niksic 235, Towards Risan and the Boka Kotorska 242, Niksic to Pluzine and the Bosnian border 243, Pluzine 244, Around Pluzine 246, Niksic to Zabljak 248, Durmitor 250, Zabljak to Pljevlja 263 Chapter 8 Eastern Highlands 265 Pljevlja 265, Pljevlja to Mojkovac 269, Biogradska Gora National Park 271, Bijelo Polje 274, Berane 277, Beyond Berane 280, Rozaje 281, Plav 284, South of Plav 289, Plav to Kolasin 291, Kolasin 293, South from Kolasin 298 Chapter 9 Borders and Beyond 301 To Albania (on foot) and back to Ulcinj (wheels) 302, Via Grncar to Albania and back to Hani i Hotit 305, From Rozaje to Pec in Kosovo 306, From Bijelo Polje via Serbia to Pljevlja 308, From Pluzine to Bosnia via Scepan Polje 310, From Niksic to Herzegovina via Vilusi 312, From Herceg Novi to the Prevlaka Peninsula in Croatia 313 Appendix 1 Language 315 Appendix 2 Glossary 321 Appendix 3 Further Information 324 Index 328
