Stephen Smith first visited Cuba in 1990 on a choreographed press tour, timed to coincide with a set-piece seven hour speech by Castro. Four years later, he returned to a country desperately selling itself as a dollar-friendly holiday destination, arriving amidst unprecedented demonstrations in Havana, and an exodus by thousands of Miami-bound rafters, which made Cuba the focus of world attention. Now, in 1996, Cuba is on the brink, in transition from communism's lonely last outpost to an uncertain future. Stephen Smith explores the enigma of Cuba, a beautiful island of rum, salsa and voodoo, which is hidden to outside view by the imposing, and increasingly doleful, figure of Fidel Castro - the world's longest serving leader.