Introduction ix PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1 Chapter 1 Background Information 3 Geography 3, Climate 4, History 5, Government and politics 16, Economy 17, People 18, Language 18, Religion 20 Chapter 2 Natural History 21 Habitats and vegetation 21, Wildlife 21 Chapter 3 Practical Information 49 When to visit 49, Highlights 50, Itinerary planning 52, Tourist information 59, Tour operators 59, Red tape 61, Embassies and diplomatic missions 62, Getting there and away 62, Safety 66, What to take 69, Money and banking 70, Getting around 72, Accommodation 73, Eating and drinking 75, Public holidays 77, Shopping 78, Media and communications 78, Cultural etiquette 79 Chapter 4 Health 85 Before you go 85, Common medical problems in Tanzania 88, Other diseases 91, Dangerous animals 93 PART TWO THE GUIDE 95 Chapter 5 Arusha and Around 97 History 98, Getting there and away 100, Orientation 101, Getting around 102, Tourist information 102, Safari operators 103, Where to stay 107, Where to eat 111, Entertainment and nightlife 116, Shopping 117, Other practicalities 120, What to see and do 121, Around Arusha 126 Chapter 6 Moshi and Around 139 Getting there and away 140, Tourist information 140, Where to stay 141, Where to eat 144, Nightlife 146, Shopping 146, Other practicalities 147, Around Moshi 148 Chapter 7 Mount Kilimanjaro National Park 157 Geology 157, History 157, Vegetation and biology 159, Climbing Kilimanjaro 160 Chapter 8 The Usambara Mountains 173 Lushoto and the Western Usambara 173, Amani Nature Reserve and the Eastern Usambara 188 Chapter 9 Tanga and the North Coast 193 Tanga and around 193, Pangani and Ushongo 205, Saadani National Park 215 Chapter 10 Tarangire and the Central Rift Valley 219 Tarangire National Park 219, Babati 225, Mount Hanang and Katesh 227, Kondoa rock art sites 231, Dodoma 244 Chapter 11 Lake Manyara and the Northern Rift Valley 247 Lake Manyara National Park 247, Lake Eyasi and the Yaeda Valley 256, North of Manyara 259 Chapter 12 Ngorongoro and the Crater Highlands 269 Karatu 269, Ngorongoro Conservation Area 275 Chapter 13 Serengeti National Park 289 History 289, Wildlife 293, Seronera, Ndutu and the southern plains 295, The Western Corridor 301, Lobo, Loliondo and the north-central Serengeti 305, The Mara River and the far northwest 307 Chapter 14 Lake Victoria 311 Mwanza and around 311, Musoma 324, Rubondo Island National Park 327, Bukoba and around 334 Chapter 15 Zanzibar 341 History 341, Getting there and away 343, Getting around 345, Zanzibar Town 347, Around Zanzibar Town 367, Islands close to Zanzibar Town 371, Northern Zanzibar 373, The east coast 384, The west coast 397, Pemba Island 403 Appendix 1 Language 412 Appendix 2 Further Information 420 Index 426 Index to advertisers 430